San Francisco: The City by the Bay
-- Semiconductor International, 6/15/2000
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Most of the areas that business travelers and tourists frequently visit are reasonably safe; however, use extra caution in the Tenderloin (near Union Square-Theater District) and Western Addition (near Japantown). Keep alert when walking in Golden Gate Park, especially at night, and be cautious about venturing off the well-populated streets in SoMa (South of Market). Market Street quickly deteriorates south of about 5th Street. Extra caution is also advised in the Mission District and Haight-Ashbury after sundown.
With that in mind, you are ready to experience the culture and excitement the city has to offer. With all its innovation and vision, the city reveres and preserves its past. The Victorian homes, cable cars and the spirit of its Gold Rush days are alive today. The city is ever changing, yet serene. It is no wonder it is one of the most beloved travel destinations in the world. The following pages cover places to go and things to do while visiting San Francisco.
Getting around town
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San Francisco Municipal Railway (MUNI)
includes buses, streetcars and cable cars that provide transportation throughout the city. Transportation maps are available in hotels and at the Visitor Information Center. Bus and streetcar fares are $1 for adults, including two transfers good within two hours. Seniors (65+) and children ages 5-17 pay $0.35. Exact change is required. MUNI passports are available for one day ($6), three days ($10) and seven days ($15). Service on some lines is available 24 hours. For schedule information, call MUNI Transport at 1-415-673-6864.
Cable cars, a national historic landmark, have been operating since1873. They offer a form of entertainment as well as transport - the conductors are real showmen, especially in their turnarounds at the ends of the lines. The cable cars travel three routes: from the corner of Powell and Market Streets, you can catch either the Powell-Mason or Powell-Hyde line. The first will take you over Nob Hill to the heart of Fisherman's Wharf's tourist shops and close to Pier 39 and the ferries to Alcatraz. The Powell-Hyde line travels over Nob Hill and Russian Hill, past Lombard, ending up at Ghirardelli Square on the western end of Fisherman's Wharf. The California Street line runs from the Embarcadero at Market Street through the Financial District and Chinatown over Nob Hill to Van Ness Avenue. You can catch the cars at any stop for $2 (one-way). Tickets are sold from machines at the terminals or from conductors along the way. MUNI passports also can be used, but no transfers are accepted. The 37 cable cars operate from 6 a.m. to midnight, and there is often a wait at the end of the line.
Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART) links San Francisco to Daly City and to the East Bay, including Oakland. BART operates Monday-Friday 4 a.m. to midnight, Saturday 6 a.m. to midnight and Sunday 8 a.m. to midnight. Ticket machines are located at all terminals. Fees range from $1.15 to $4.05. Terminals in downtown San Francisco are located along Market Street at the Embarcadero, Montgomery Street and Powell Street. Phone: 1-415-992-2278.
Ferries criss-cross San Francisco Bay, docking at Sausalito, Larkspur (weekends), Alcatraz, Angel Island, Oakland, Sausalito/Tiburon, Vallejo and Alameda. Fees range from $1.40 to $12.25.
Taxis are available 24 hours, easily hailed, especially in high-traffic areas, and readily available at all major hotels. Call Yellow at 1-415-282-3737; DeSoto at 1-415-673-1414; Veteran's at 1-415-552-1300; or Luxor at 1-415-282-4141. The basic flag-drop fee is $1.70, and the standard rate for each additional mile is $1.80 plus $0.30 per minute for traffic delays and waiting. Up to five people can normally ride for the price of one.
Palate temptations
Use these general guidelines to help make dining selections: Based on the cost of a dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than $15;
$$ = $15-$25; $$$ = $25 or more.
Fournou's Ovens is an award-winning restaurant located on Nob Hill. This posh restaurant has oak-fired ovens and a 20,000-bottle wine cellar. Executive chef Mattio's seafood, oven-style meats and desserts are Fournou's forte. The Pavilions section serves breakfast, lunch and a weekend brunch on the patio overlooking the cable cars. Open daily from 6:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5:30 to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday to 10:30 p.m. Coat and tie recommended for dinner. Reservations mandatory. $$. Major credit cards accepted. Located at 905 California St. (at Powell), in the Renaissance Stanford Court Hotel; phone: 1-415-989-1910.
Campton Placeis comfortably elegant, while continuing to stretch the definition of California cuisine. Open Monday-Friday 7 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. and 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., Saturday 8 a.m. to 11 a.m. and noon to 2 p.m., Sunday brunch 8 a.m. to 2 p.m., dinner daily 6 p.m. to 9:30 p.m., and till 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Coat and tie preferred. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards accepted. Located at 340 Stockton St. (Union Square); phone: 1-415-955-5555.
Postrio, Wolfgang Puck's Northern California culinary home, is regularly rated one of the city's best. The cuisine is inventively haute Californian with Mediterranean and some Asian touches. Breakfast and lunch Monday-Friday 7 a.m. to 10 a.m. and 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; brunch Saturday 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., Sunday 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.; dinner Sunday-Thursday 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday till 10:30 p.m. Coat and tie suggested. Reservations required. $$$. Major credit cards accepted. Located at 545 Post St. (at Mason Street, in the Prescott Hotel); phone 1-415-776-7825.
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Jardiniere offers a terrific range of contemporary California cuisine prepared by Tracy Des Jardins and served in a glorious and intricate two-story, mezzanine interior. Open daily 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Reservations a must. Major credit cards accepted. $$$. Located at 300 Grove St. (Civic Center area); phone: 1-415-861-5555.
Chez Panisse is the original California-cuisine dining establishment serving fresh vegetable-oriented dishes at either the upstairs cafe or the main restaurant. Run by Alice Waters since the 1970s, Chez Panisse has trained some of the Bay Area's best chefs. Fixed five-course menu. Cafe hours: Lunch Monday-Thursday 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.; dinner Monday-Thursday 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. No reservations accepted. At the main restaurant, only dinner is served, and reservations need to be made a month in advance. Major credit cards accepted. $$$. Located at 1517 Shattuck Ave., Berkeley; phone: 1-510-548-5525.
Local favorites
Garden Court-The resplendent stained-glass dome and brilliant chandeliers make this SoMa dining experience legendary, and the menu lives up to the decor. The cuisine is California and French. The Sunday champagne brunch is splendid. Open Monday-Saturday 6:30 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., daily 6 p.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday brunch 10 a.m. to 1:30 p.m., tea Tuesday-Saturday 1:30 p.m. to 4 p.m. Coat and tie recommended. Reservations advisable. $$ to $$$. Major credit cards accepted. Located at 2 New Montgomery St. (at Market, in the Palace Hotel); phone: 1-415-546-5010 or 1-415-546-8089.
One Market - Restaurateurs Bradley Ogden and Michael Dellar serve a distinctive American cuisine that earns this foot-of-Market restaurant high praise. Open Monday-Friday lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., dinner 5:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m., Saturday 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., closed Sunday for private functions. Lounge open continuously. Informal dress. Reservations recommended. $$$. All major credit cards accepted. Located at 1 Market St.; phone: 1-415-777-2233 or 1-415-777-5588, ext. 38.
Fringale -This restaurant offers country French food, from the expected to the unusual. The chef, Gerald Hirigoyen, prefers to maintain his strong and varied menu while changing individual ingredients. Small and intimate with an elegant and calm interior. Open daily 5:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. Major credit cards accepted. $$. Located at 570 4th St. (SoMa); phone: 1-415-543-0573.
Aqua- This is the place for seafood. The underwater theme is enhanced by the contemporary art deco decor, with a delightful high-ceilinged interior and custom glass light fixtures. Open for lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 a.m. to 2:15 p.m., dinner Monday-Saturday 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Major credit cards accepted, except American Express. $$$. Located at 252 California St. (Financial District); phone: 1-415-956-9662.
Sam's Grill- This no-frills stalwart also serves some of the city's best seafood, in an atmosphere traditional right down to curtained booths. Open Monday-Friday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Informal dress. Reservations taken for dinner. $$. All major credit cards accepted. Located at 374 Bush St. (between Kearny and Montgomery); phone: 1-415-421-0594.
Italian options
Kuleto's lively bar scene adds to the popularity of this Union Square Northern Italian restaurant. The huge, open kitchen serves grilled seafood, spicy sauces and original pastas. Open daily 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. Informal dress. Reservations advisable. $$. Located at 221 Powell St.; phone: 1-415-397-7720.
Rose Pistola draws the young and trendy and the traditional Italian families to dine on Genoese- and Ligurian-style cioppino, local fish and wood-hearth braised dishes. Open for lunch daily 11:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.; dinner Sunday-Thursday 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m.; late-night menu Sunday-Thursday 10:30 p.m. to midnight, Friday and Saturday 11:30 p.m. to 1 a.m. Major credit cards accepted. $$. Located at 532 Columbus Ave. (North Beach); phone: 1-415-399-0499.
Fior d'Italia, established in 1886, is the oldest Italian restaurant in the United States. Tastefully refurbished and lushly furnished, the restaurant serves excellent lasagna, tripe specials, steak sauteed with peppers and onions, and seven different preparations of veal, including osso buco. Check out the private dining rooms called "The Godfather" and "The Tony Bennett Room." Open daily 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Coat and tie preferred. Reservations recommended. $$$. Major credit cards accepted. Located at 601 Union St. (North Beach); phone: 1-415-986-1886.
Julius' Castle offers a candlelight ambience and a fabulous view from atop Telegraph Hill, earning a reputation as the city's most romantic restaurant. Open daily 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Jacket preferred. Reservations advised. $$$. Major credit cards accepted. Located at 1541 Montgomery St.; phone: 1-415-392-2222 or 1-415-989-6666.
Asian selections
Oritalia offers an enticing mix of dishes influenced by the cuisines of Japan, China and Southeast Asia married with the elements of Mediterranean cooking. Dinner nightly 4:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. $$$. Located at 586 Bush Street (Union Square); phone: 1-415-782-8122.
Tommy Toy's elegantly combines French and Chinese haute cuisine with a French presentation. The intimate dining room has a luxurious Chinese decor. Open for lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and dinner daily 6 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Jacket and tie recommended for dinner. Reservations advisable. $$$. All major credit cards accepted. Located at 655 Montgomery St. (across from the Trans-America Pyramid); phone: 1-415-397-4888.
Empress of China combines outstanding views of the city with distinctive, elegant dining. Open Monday-Saturday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m., Sunday 3-10:30 p.m. Coat and tie recommended. Reservations advisable. $$. All major credit cards accepted. Located at 838 Grant Ave.; phone: 1-415-434-1345.
E & O Trading Co. has special menu selections, theme decorations, entertainment and valet parking, which can be arranged. Groups of 25 to 250 can be accommodated. Lunch and dinner 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily except Thursday 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11:30 a.m. to midnight and Sunday 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. $$. Located at 314 Sutter Street (Union Square); phone: 1-415-693-0303.
Additional dining
McCormick & Kuleto's- A seafood emporium in Ghirardelli Square with excellent views of Fisherman's Wharf and the bay. Open Monday-Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m., Sunday 10:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Informal dress. Reservations recommended. $$. Major credit cards accepted. Located at 900 N. Point St.; phone: 1-415-929-1730.
Moose's- Few restaurants have retained as much popularity over the years as Moose's, on the east side of Washington Park in North Beach. The food is fresh, the atmosphere lively, and the sense of comfort it provides makes this the gathering place for San Francisco's movers and shakers. Also good for a late-evening drink at the bar. Open daily 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Informal. Reservations suggested. $$. Major credit cards accepted. Located at 1652 Stockton St. (between Union and Filbert); phone: 1-415-989-7800.
Cypress Club- Among the wildest looking, yet upscale restaurants in San Francisco. Brilliant postmodern decor. Cutting-edge menu of California cuisine, with playful presentations. The wine list is perhaps unrivalled in the city. Live jazz nightly, valet parking. Open Sunday-Thursday 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday to 11 p.m. Coat and tie. Reservations necessary. $$$. Major credit cards accepted. Located at 500 Jackson St.; phone: 1-415-296-8555.
Greens- This vegetarian restaurant was one of the first and is one of the best in the United States. Even the most stalwart meat eaters could be converted here. Produce comes from the garden at the Zen Center in Marin County. Bread recipes are derived from the much-prized Tassajara Bread Book, and loaves are baked fresh daily. Open for lunch Tuesday-Friday 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Sunday brunch 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., dinner Monday-Friday 5:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m., Saturday 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. (fixed prices). Major credit cards accepted. $-$$. Located at Fort Mason Building A (Buchanan and Marina); phone: 1-415-771-7955.
Local tours
Gray Line offers a host of city tours and Bay and Alcatraz Island cruises, as well as day trips to such nearby California attractions as Sausalito and Muir Woods, Yosemite, the wine country and Monterey and Carmel. Located at 350 8th St.; phone: 1-415-558-7333.
Tower Tours offers city tours and tours of Muir Woods, Sausalito, the wine country, Yosemite and Monterey and Carmel. Located at 77 Jefferson St.; phone: 1-415-434-8687.
Cable Car Charters has two tours departing from Jefferson and Taylor streets at Fisherman's Wharf. A one-hour motorized cable car tour leaves every half hour and costs $12. A two-hour Golden Gate Bridge tour departs daily at about 1 p.m. and costs $18. Located at 2830 Geary Blvd.; phone: 1-415-922-2425.
City Guides is a free program sponsored by the San Francisco Public Library. Volunteers conduct historic, architectural and anecdotal walking tours all over town. Friends of the Library, Main Library, Civic Center; phone: 1-415-557-4266.
Precita Eyes Tours offers guided tours to selected sights in the Mission District, a largely Latino neighborhood, with many striking outdoor murals. Located at 2981 24th St.; phone: 1-415-285-2287.
Rendezvous Brigantine Charters has sunset and Sunday cruises that cost $22.50 and brunch cruises that cost $39. Depart from Pier 40; phone: 1-415-543-7333.
Red & White Fleet Golden Gate Bay cruises offer a one-hour multilingual narrated tour. Depart from Pier 43 at Fisherman's Wharf; phone: 1-415-447-0597.
Blue & Gold Fleet has one-hour bay cruises leaving from Pier 39 at Fisherman's Wharf and from Pier 41 (the Alcatraz tour); phone: 1-415-705-5555.
Escape Artist organizes adventures and custom group activities: flying fighter planes, riding in hot-air balloons, panning for gold, driving race cars, parachuting, bungee jumping, white-water rafting. Located at 150 Tiller Court, Half Moon Bay; phone: 1-650-726-7626.
Must-see sites
The Golden Gate Bridge, the bridge that was said "couldn't be built," opened in 1937 to become the most photographed man-made structure in the world. Its distinctive International Orange spans 1.2 miles between San Francisco and the Marin Headlands. The suspension bridge design permits a sway of 27 ft at midspan. A pedestrian sidewalk provides one of the most dramatic and beautiful views anywhere in the city. Try to do your walk on a sunny day and dress warmly - it can be very windy on the bridge. Free for pedestrians, $3 toll for southbound vehicles. To get there, take a cable car and then a bus.
Coit Tower is perched atop Telegraph Hill and affords an excellent view of the city, even from the base of the tower. Inside at the ground level are wonderful murals painted by 1930s WPA artists. For $3, an elevator takes you to the top of the tower. Open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Phone: 1-415-362-0808.
For another panoramic view of the city, visit the SkyDeck at One Embarcadero Center. Admission is $5 for adults, $3.50 for children ages 13-17 and $3 for children ages 5-12. Located at Sacramento and Battery streets; phone: 1-415-772-0591.
Mission Dolores, the city's oldest building, was founded in 1776 as Mission San Francisco de Asis. Open daily 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. in the summer. Voluntary admission is $1. Located at 16th and Dolores streets; phone: 1-415-621-8203.
San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park exhibits meticulously built ship models and large ship relics, carved figureheads and a collection of photographs, relics and maps. Open daily 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Free admission. Located at Fisherman's Wharf, Hyde and Jefferson streets; phone: 1-415-556-3002.
For museum buffs
Rooftop at the Yerba Buena Gardens is home to recently opened Zeum, a 34,000 ft2production facility that includes an exhibition gallery, performing arts theater, multi-media production lab and much more. Kids 8 to 18 can make and explore art using technology as their creative tool. Open Wednesday through Friday, noon to 6 p.m., Saturday and Sunday 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission: $5 for ages 5 to 18; $7 for adults; $6 for seniors and students; free to members and children under 5 years old. Located at the corner of 4th and Howard directly on top of the Moscone Convention Center; phone: 1-415-777-2800.
M. H. de Young Memorial Museum in Golden Gate Park is San Francisco's oldest, largest and most diverse art museum with 21 galleries of paintings, sculpture and decorative arts. American, pre-Columbian, African, Greek, Egyptian and Italian art, as well. Open Wednesday-Sunday 9:30 a.m. to 5:15 p.m. Admission is $6 for adults, $4 for seniors, $3 for children ages 12-17 and free for children under age 12. (Combined same-day admission with the Asian Art Museum.) Located at 10th Avenue and Kennedy Drive; phone: 1-415-863-3330.
Asian Art Museum is the largest museum devoted to Asian art in the Western world. Open Wednesday-Sunday 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission is $6 for adults, $4 for seniors, $3 for children ages 12-17 and free for children under age 12. (Adjacent to the de Young Museum; combined admission on the same day.) Golden Gate Park; phone: 1-415-668-8921; recorded information: 1-415-379-8801.
The renovated California Palace of the Legion of Honor in Lincoln Park is a neoclassical masterpiece modeled after the Palais de la Legion d'Honneur in Paris. Its collection includes fine Dutch, French and American paintings, as well as Rodin bronzes. (The Thinker is in front.) Open Tuesday-Sunday 9:30 a.m. to 5:15 p.m. Admission is $6 for adults, $4 for seniors, $3 for children 12-17 and free for children under 12. At 34th Avenue at Clement Street; phone: 1-415-863-3330. The white Holocaust Memorial, designed by sculptor George Segal, is within walking distance.
San Francisco Museum of Modern Art has been offering adventurous art since 1935. Its newish building, designed by architect Mario Botta in 1994, is a work of art in its own right. The collection inside includes works by Pollock, Rothko, Johns and Rauschenberg. There is modern sculpture as well and a collection of 8000 contemporary photographs. Open Tuesday-Sunday 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., Thursday till 9 p.m. Admission is $7 for adults and $3.50 for seniors and students. Located at 151 3rd St. (SoMa, near the Moscone Convention Center); phone: 1-415-357-4000.
Center for the Arts at Yerba Buena Gardens is the city's spectacular downtown arts complex south of Market (SoMa). Offering a diverse schedule of cross-cultural visual and performing arts programs, it overlooks a 5-acre urban park with terrace cafes, outdoor stage and walk-through waterfall. Open Tuesday-Sunday 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Located at 701 Mission (at 3rd Street, near the Moscone Convention Center); phone: 1-415-978-2787.
A change of pace if you are near the Museum of Modern Art and Yerba Buena Gardens is the Cartoon Art Museum, with exhibits ranging from classic Walt Disney to Latino taggers (graffiti artists). Open Wednesday-Friday 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Sunday 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. Admission is $4 for adults and $3 for seniors and students. Located at 814 Mission St.; phone: 1-415-227-8666.
The Ansel Adams Center exhibits some of the world's most exciting photographs, including a gallery focusing on Adams and his place in 20th-century photography. Open Tuesday-Sunday 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission is $4 for adults, $3 for students, $2 for seniors and children 12-17 and free for children under 12. Located at 250 4th St.; phone: 1-415-495-7000.
The 650 exhibits of the senses at the Exploratorium are designed as hands-on, interactive experiences. Located in the Palace of Fine Arts in the Marina District, the science, art and human-perception experiences have earned the Exploratorium an international reputation. Open Tuesday-Sunday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Wednesdays to 9:30 p.m. Admission is $9 for adults, $7 for seniors and students, $5 for children 6-17 and free for children under 6. Located at 3601 Lyon St.; phone: 1-415-561-0360.
The Mexican Museum will surprise you. Its collection encompasses more than 9000 artworks depicting Mexican art and culture. Open Wednesday-Friday noon to 5 p.m., weekends 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission is $3 for adults and $2 for seniors and students. Building D, Fort Mason Center; phone: 1-415-441-0445.
San Francisco Art Institute galleries specialize in experimental contemporary art and also contain a Diego Rivera mural. Open Monday-Saturday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Thursday till 8 p.m., Sunday noon to 5 p.m. Free admission. Located at 800 Chestnut St. (at Jones Street); phone: 1-415-771-7020.
Parks, gardens and zoos
Golden Gate Park, begun in 1870 in a barren stretch of sand dunes, boasts more than 6000 varieties of plants and a redwood memorial grove. The 1017-acre park encompasses the Japanese Tea Garden, M. H. de Young Museum, Asian Art Museum, California Academy of Sciences, Strybing Arboretum and Botanical Gardens, Conservatory of Flowers, a herd of buffalo and two windmills, plus miles of hiking, jogging, skating and biking trails.
The San Francisco Zoo (on the Pacific Coast off Skyline Boulevard west of downtown) features exhibits including primates, koalas, rare snow leopards and an Insect Zoo. Open daily 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission is $7 for adults, $3.50 for seniors and children 12-15, $1.50 for children 6-11, free for children under 6. Located at 1 Zoo Rd.; phone: 1-415-753-7080.
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The Japanese Tea Garden, regarded as the jewel within the heart of Golden Gate Park, dates from 1894. Both Western-style and traditional Asian teas are served. Open daily 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Admission is $2.50. Golden Gate Park (next to the Asian Art Museum); phone: 1-415-752-1171.
Aquariums and planetariums
The California Academy of Sciences (directly across from the M. H. de Young Museum) lets you watch the stars in the daytime and take a deep-sea dive without getting wet. It is home to the Morrison Planetarium, Steinhart Aquarium and the Natural History Museum. Open daily 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission is $7 for adults, $4 for seniors and children 12-17, $1.50 for children 6-11 and free for children under 6. Golden Gate Park; phone: 1-415-750-7145.
Underwater World has a moving walkway that runs underneath a clear acrylic vault from where you can watch sharks, stingrays and other fish swim over and alongside you. Open Monday-Thursday 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., Friday-Sunday 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Admission is $12.95 for adults, $9.95 for seniors and people with disabilities and $6.50 for children ages 3-11. East side of Pier 39, Embarcadero at Beach; phone: 1-415-623-5300.
Additional experiences
The Transamerica Pyramid, once a controversial addition to the San Francisco skyline, now ranks with the Golden Gate Bridge as a signature landmark. San Francisco's tallest structure stands 853 ft tall, 48 stories capped by a 212-ft spire. Lobby exhibits are open Monday-Friday 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Free admission. Located at 600 Montgomery St. (between Clay and Washington); phone: 1-415-983-4840.
The Waterfront- With the recent reclamation of the Presidio (from the military) and the Embarcadero (from the freeway, demolished in 1991), it is theoretically possible to walk or bike the 10-mile stretch of U-shaped shoreline that hugs the northern tip of San Francisco. But do not expect to do it in one stretch - break it up into sections. You can begin your exploration at 4th and King with a ride on the new E-line Caltrain that takes you through the first 1.5 miles of light industrial and marine activity to within two blocks of the Ferry Building at the north end of Market Street. There, a farmers market hums on Saturdays from April to October. Stroll the Embarcadero for the next 3.5 miles past cafes, restaurants and converted wharf buildings toward Pier 39, Fisherman's Wharf and Ghirardelli Square. Fisherman's Wharf is ultracommercial, rather like a strip mall with seagulls. The next 3 miles take you through Fort Mason to Marina Green, ending at the yacht clubs. The hardiest hikers can press on through the Presidio along the Golden Gate Promenade and end up at the Golden Gate Bridge at Fort Point.
Ocean Beach, at the western end of Golden Gate Park, is (weather permitting) a fine place to stroll along the beach. Then walk up a small hill to watch the seals play on Seal Rock and gaze down into the remains of the historic Sutro Bath House. Enjoy a drink in the main-floor lounge of the famous Cliff House, and then visit the Musee Mecanique, an interactive museum of antique penny arcade machines (you put in your quarters and play). Open Monday-Friday 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., Saturday and Sunday 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Free admission. Located at 1090 Point Lobos Ave.; phone: 1-415-386-1170.
Next to it is the Camera Obscura, an optical instrument that is a replica of a Leonardo da Vinci invention. It permits a quaint, postcard view of the western edge of San Francisco as the Victorians saw it. Open daily 11 a.m. to sunset. Admission is $1 for adults and $0.50 for children under age 12. Located at 1096 Point Lobos Ave. (at the Great Highway); phone: 1-415-750-0415.
At the Far Western end of Golden Gate Park is the Beach Chalet, a renovated, 19th-century Spanish Colonial building. The WPA murals inside by Lucien Labaudt depict San Francisco of the 1930s. The restaurant and brewery upstairs offers an unobstructed view of the ocean. There is parking between the chalet and the beach. Open daily 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Beach Chalet Visitors Center, the Great Highway, south of Fulton Street; phone: 1-415-751-2766.
The Golden Gate Fortune Cookies Factory encourages visitors to see fortunes in the making. Open daily 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Located at 56 Ross Alley (between Jackson and Washington); phone: 1-415-781-3956.
The Crookedest Street in the World is a title claimed by Lombard, laid out in the 1920s. Hairpin turns in one block between Hyde Street and Leavenworth descend a 40deg slope faced with brick and flowers that make the street itself as spectacular as the view it offers of the city and bay. There are eight turns, or nine, or maybe 10, depending on whom is counting.
The 49-Mile Scenic Drive, marked with a heavy blue line painted on the roadway and distinctive signs, offers a half-day drive past the city's most scenic and historic points, such as Ghirardelli Square, the Palace of Legion of Honor, Golden Gate Park and Twin Peaks. Maps are available at the Visitor Information Center, 900 Market St. (Hallidie Plaza, lower level); phone: 1-415-391-2000.
Antique shopping
The Jackson Square Art and Antique Dealers Association consists of 21 antique shops with Oriental art and furniture, porcelain and ceramics, tapestries and carpets, plus Continental and English furniture. Open Monday-Friday 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Located at 414 Jackson St.; phone: 1-415-296-8150.
John Doughty Antiques, one of many Jackson Square dealers, specializes in English and French furniture and oil paintings. Open Monday-Friday 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Located at 619 Sansome St.; phone: 1-415-398-6849.
John Scopazzi Gallery, offering antiquarian maps, prints and books on Union Square, resembles a fascinating, private library. Open Monday-Friday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Appointments recommended. Located at 130 Maiden Lane (mezzanine); phone: 1-415-362-5708.
Art galleries
John Berggruen Gallery, one of the most prestigious in San Francisco, offers three floors of contemporary art. Open Monday-Saturday 9:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Located at 228 Grant Ave.; phone: 1-415-781-4629.
Braustein Quay Gallery, another prestigious location, specializes in contemporary and experimental art forms. Open Monday-Saturday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Located at 250 Sutter St.; phone: 1-415-392-5532.
Larry Evans and James Willis Gallery is the city's most respected source of Asian and Southeast Asian artifacts, especially the primitive arts of Indonesia and New Guinea. Open Monday-Saturday noon to 5:30 p.m. Located in a building with several floors of art galleries at 79 Geary St.; phone: 1-415-398-7545.
Paul Anglim Gallery shows avant-garde art. Open Tuesday-Friday 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., Saturday 11 a.m. to 5 p.m; phone: 1-415-433-2710.
Bargain vs. trendy shopping areas
Metreon is a Sony Entertainment Center covering four floors and over 350,000 ft2. You'll find a 15-screen multiplex, a SONY-IMAX theater with 80-ft-tall screen, a collection of restaurants and shopping. It is located at Fourth and Mission Streets.
Embarcadero is San Francisco's largest shopping center. A virtual city within the city, you walk outside to get from one group of stores to another. It houses more than 140 stores and fine restaurants, filling eight blocks along Clay and Sacramento streets (between Battery and the Embarcadero). Shops are generally open Monday-Friday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Saturday to 5 p.m., Sunday noon to 5 p.m. The tree-lined, open-air plaza design is classic John Portman, with outdoor cafes and the dramatic Hyatt Regency Hotel with its 17-story atrium.
San Francisco Shopping Center , downtown, offers a ride on the nation's only spiral escalator. Browse specialty shops and regulars such as Nordstrom, Godiva and Warner Brothers. The nine-level center is open Monday-Saturday 9:30 a.m. to 8 p.m., Sunday 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Located at 5th and Market; phone: 1-415-495-5656.
Crocker Galleria's 50 specialty shops, boutiques and restaurants are housed under a Milan-style glass dome in the Financial District. Open Monday-Friday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Located at 50 Post St.; phone: 1-415-393-1500.
Ghirardelli Square , once a chocolate factory and now home to 75 shops and restaurants, is one of many shopping choices at Fisherman's Wharf. It has specialty shops beyond standard tourist fare, including one of the best chocolate shops. Stores are generally open Sunday-Thursday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Friday and Saturday 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Located at 900 N. Point St. (at Larkin); phone: 1-415-775-5500.
Union Square - International designer boutiques, sumptuous gift stores and galleries, and flagship stores of major retailers - some of the best shopping in the city. North of Market, between Geary and Post.
Haight-Ashbury - Once the cradle of the 1960s hippie movement, this area has become gentrified. It features a wide variety of shopping, from national chains to small retro boutiques. Haight Street, just east of Golden Gate Park.
Union Street - Several blocks of shopping and entertainment, including shops, restaurants and bars. Union Street between Franklin and Scott streets in the Marina.
Unique and unusual shops
Adolph Gasser is an all-around photography store: equipment, accessories and repair for beginner and pro. Located at 181 2nd St.; phone: 1-800-994-2773.
Joseph Schmidt Confections - This tiny shop makes and sells the best fresh candy in the city. You can buy anything sugary, from chewy grapefruit gums to 20 kinds of truffles to huge chocolate bunnies and Santas. Located at 3489 16th St.; phone: 1-415-861-8682.
Tangerine Accents - A place to buy netsuke, the finely carved bone, wood or metal figurines used by samurai to close the drawstrings of their money sacks. Prices are from a few dollars to several hundred. Located at 733 Grant Ave. in Chinatown; phone: 1-415-982-6654.
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Britex Fabrics , one of few remaining complete fabric emporiums, has everything from silk to lace. Located at 146 Geary St. (two blocks from Union Square); phone: 1-415-392-2910.
Limn offers a huge selection of contemporary (and bizarre) furniture, art and home accessories. Located at 290 Townsend; phone: 1-415-543-5466.
Markets
Chinatown is a cultural journey into the largest Chinese quarter outside Asia. Start at the green-and-ocher gateway at Grant Avenue and Bush Street to tour herbalists, souvenir shops, restaurants and jewelry dealers. The narrow, crowded streets and alleys are best explored by walking (parking is difficult). Shops open as early as 9:30 a.m. and close about 9:30 p.m.
Japantown is the focal point for the city's large Japanese community. Surrounding the 5-acre Japan Center is a collection of cultural sites, restaurants, teahouses, shops and theaters. The Kabuki theater complex offers everything from movies to traditional Noh Theater and Japanese baths and massage. Geary and Laguna Streets; phone: 1-415-921-1782.
Ferry Plaza Farmers Market is a colorful, open-air display of seasonal produce, cheeses and breads. Open Saturday 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Ferry Building (Embarcadero at Market).
Heart of the City Farmers Market is an ethnically diverse cornucopia of flowers, produce and seafood in the Civic Center. Open Wednesday and Sunday 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. United Nations Plaza, 1182 Market St.; phone: 1-415-558-9455.
